How essential oils are used in skincare and why formulation matters

What is an essential oil?

Essential oils are concentrated aromatic compounds found in plants. They’re extracted from flowers, leaves, bark, resins, seeds, or peels, most commonly through steam distillation or cold pressing.

Each essential oil contains hundreds of naturally occurring constituents. These compounds give the oil its scent, but they also influence how it interacts with the skin. Some are known for calming properties, others for antimicrobial or astringent behaviour, and many offer antioxidant support.

Because essential oils are volatile and oil-soluble, they can be absorbed through the skin when diluted correctly. They can also be inhaled, which is why their aroma can have such a noticeable effect on mood and emotional state.

Why essential oils are used in skincare

In skincare, essential oils are typically used for three interconnected reasons.

First, they offer functional skin support. Certain oils are traditionally used to help calm redness, balance oil production, or support skin that feels congested or stressed.

Second, they contribute to formulation balance. A well-chosen essential oil blend can complement the carrier oils and actives in a product, rather than overpowering them.

Third, they shape the sensory experience. Skincare is a daily ritual, and scent plays a powerful role in how we connect with it. This emotional layer is often overlooked, but it matters.

Essential oils and acne-prone skin

Search interest around essential oils and acne often centres on one question, do they help or do they make things worse?

The honest answer is, it depends.

Essential oils can cause problems in acne-prone skin when they’re:

• Used at high concentrations
• Poorly blended
• Added as an afterthought for scent rather than skin function

When used correctly, some essential oils are chosen specifically because they’re gentle, calming, and supportive of compromised or inflamed skin.

In acne-prone skin, the goal is never to aggressively strip or disinfect. It’s to support balance, reduce unnecessary irritation, and help the skin feel calmer over time.

The importance of dilution and formulation

Essential oils are highly concentrated and should never be applied directly to the skin on their own. In professional skincare formulation, they’re used at carefully calculated levels and always diluted within a complete formula designed to support the skin barrier.

This is where many of the concerns around essential oils and breakouts or irritation tend to come from. Issues are far more likely when oils are used neat, overused, or added to products without consideration for skin type, barrier health, or overall balance.

When essential oils are diluted correctly and supported by suitable carrier oils, they can be used comfortably on the skin.

This is why formulation matters far more than the presence or absence of essential oils themselves.

If you’re interested in the safety side of essential oils, including dilution, skin suitability, and common mistakes to avoid, I’ve written a more detailed guide on how to use essential oils safely on the skin.

The role of synergy in essential oil blends

Essential oils are rarely used alone in skincare. Blending allows their individual properties to work together more gently and effectively.

This is known as synergy. One oil might support calm, another balance, another skin renewal. Together, they can create a more rounded effect than any single oil used in isolation.

In skincare, synergistic blends may help to:

• Soothe visible redness
• Support skin that feels congested or reactive
• Support skin that feels out of balance or unsettled
• Enhance the overall sensory experience

A gentle approach to essential oils in practice

In my own formulations, essential oils are chosen for skin compatibility first, aroma second. Every blend is designed to feel supportive rather than overpowering.

For example, oils such as lavender, frankincense, geranium, and sweet orange are traditionally selected in acne-prone or stressed skin formulas because of their calming, balancing, or gently astringent nature. When diluted correctly and supported by barrier-friendly carrier oils, they can complement a gentle skincare routine rather than dominate it.

The aim is never to “treat” skin aggressively, but to encourage conditions where skin can settle and recover.

Essential oils as part of a skincare ritual

Beyond skin benefits, essential oils contribute to how skincare feels emotionally.
Scent is processed by the limbic system, the part of the brain linked to memory and emotion. This is why certain aromas feel grounding, uplifting, or familiar.

This connection between scent and emotion is why essential oils are often used to support emotional wellbeing and calm. When inhaled, aromatic compounds can gently influence how we feel, making them a natural fit for moments of stress, anxiety, or overwhelm. If you’d like to explore this further, you may enjoy reading more about how essential oils are used for anxiety and emotional balance.

When skincare includes this sensory layer, it can become more than a functional step, it becomes a pause in the day.
This is particularly valuable for skin that’s reactive, stressed, or influenced by hormonal changes, where nervous system regulation and skin health are often closely linked.

Aromatherapy doesn’t have to be limited to facial skincare. Warm baths and thoughtfully formulated bath oils can be a gentle way to experience aromatherapy safely. You can read more about using essential oils in aromatherapy bath rituals here.

Final thoughts

Essential oils are neither unnecessary nor automatically problematic. They’re powerful botanical ingredients that deserve thoughtful formulation and respectful use.

When used at appropriate levels, within barrier-supportive formulas, they can offer both skin and sensory benefits. The key is choosing products where essential oils are used with intention, not excess.

If you’re curious about how essential oils can be used gently in skincare, exploring thoughtfully formulated, aromatherapy-led products can be a good place to start.